Hair Types and Textures in Men and Women (2024)

Hair type refers to your hair's natural curl pattern: straight, wavy, curly, or coily (very curly, coiled strands). The shape of hair follicles determines how curly or straight hair is. Round hair follicles produce straight hair, while oval and curve-shaped hair follicles produce curly hair.

There are several hair type classification systems. The most popular was developed in the 1990s by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker.

This system categorizes 12 hair types using a numbering system (1 through 4) based on the natural curl pattern. These types are further classified into subgroups depending on hair thickness using letters (A, B, and C).

This article explains hair types and how to determine your specific type so you can choose hairstyles and hair care routines to look and feel your best.

Hair Types in Men and Women

The following are the three key characteristics that combine to create your unique hair type:

• Curl pattern (texture):Straight, wavy, curly, or coily
• Density:The number of individual hair strands per square inch of scalp
• Diameter:The thickness of each hair strand

Hair type can vary slightly across different sections of your scalp. For example, some people might have straight hair near the crown (top of their head) and wavy strands around the hairline.

Hair types are not specific to biological sex. People assigned male at birth and people assigned female at birth can have all hair types across the spectrum.

The Andre Walker Hair Classification System is a popular tool hairstylists use to determine which styles and products are best for your hair. This system classifies hair type based on your curl pattern, as follows:

• Type 1: Straight
• Type 2: Wavy
• Type 3: Curly
• Type 4: Coily

Subcategories within each type are based on the thickness of hair strands:

• A: Fine
• B: Medium
• C: Coarse

Type 1: Straight Hair

Type 1 hair grows from round, symmetrical hair follicles. It is straight, with no waves or curls from root to tip, is soft, and has a sleek and shiny appearance. Type 1 hair tends to become oily quickly, so experts recommend washing type 1 hair once every three days.

Subtypes include:

• Type 1A:Fine and fragile, unable to hold waves or curls
• Type 1B:Medium-thickness with more volume than type 1A and a subtle bend
• Type 1C:Thick, coarse, full hair with more volume and slight bends
  

Type 2: Wavy Hair

Type 2 hair grows from hair follicles with a slight bend at the shaft, with hair curves or bends forming an "S" shape. Weather patterns can affect the appearance of type 2 hair. Humidity can give it a wavy or frizzy appearance; it may look flatter in cold, dry weather conditions.

Subtypes include:

• Type 2A:Fine, wavy hair naturally falling in an S-shaped pattern
• Type 2B:Medium-thickness with S-shaped waves that begin the mid-length of the hair
• Type 2C:Coarse and thick hair with a tendency to become frizzy, with S-shaped waves starting from the hair roots

Type 3: Curly Hair

Type 3 hair grows from hair follicles that are bent or asymmetrical, forming loose to tight spiral or corkscrew-shaped curls. This type appears straight when wet, but as the hair dries, the curls return. Type 3 hair is voluminous but tends to become dry and requires more frequent moisturization.

Subtypes include:

• Type 3A: Shiny, full, thick hair with S-shaped curls
• Type 3B: Medium-tight curls with varying textures
• Type 3C: Tight corkscrew-shaped curls are prone to dryness and damage, as the ringlet curls make it harder for natural hair oil (sebum) to reach the hair shaft

Type 4: Coily Hair

Type 4 hair grows from hook-shaped hair follicles that produce wiry, tightly coiled curls. This type tends to be naturally dry, spongy, and fragile, making it prone to breakage. Individual strands form tight, small S-shaped or zigzag-shaped curls. Frequent moisturization is often required to keep the curls moisturized and well-defined.

Subtypes include:

• Type 4A:S-shaped coils with a defined pattern that could wrap around a crochet needle
• Type 4B:Tight, Z-shaped coils
• Type 4C:Tight, undefined coils with a zigzag pattern and tend to shrink significantly after drying

What's My Hair Type?

Figuring out your hair type is the first step to unlocking its full potential and creating an effective hair care routine. Here are some self-assessment tips to get you started:

• Wash and air dry your hair without using any styling products so you're working with your hair's natural texture.
• Stand before a clean mirror and grab a strand of your dry hair.
• Assess the curvature of your hair strand: Does it fall straight with no bends or curves (type 1)? Does it have a slight S-shaped curve (type 2)? Does it form defined curls (type 3) or tight coils (type 4)?

Understanding your hair texture is the first step in identifying your hair type. Hair density (the number of hairs per square inch) and diameter (the width of each strand) also play a role.

Assessing density and diameter on your own can be tricky. If you need clarification on your hair type, consider consulting a hairstylist. They can examine your hair texture, density, and diameter to provide a professional assessment and advise you on hair care routines and products tailored to your hair type.

Will You Have the Same Hair Type Forever?

Genetics primarily determines your hair type. However, several factors can change your hair texture throughout your life, including:

• Hormonal fluctuations:Hormonal shifts during puberty, pregnancy, and menopause can impact hair texture. Increased estrogen during pregnancy might lead to thicker hair, while decreased estrogen during menopause can cause hair to thin and become straighter. Endocrine disorders can also change hair's texture, growth, and appearance.
• Age:Hair follicles naturally produce less sebum (natural hair oil) as we age, leading to drier, more fragile hair that may cause straighter or looser curls.
• Chemical treatments:Hair coloring, straightening, relaxing, and perms all use chemicals that can alter the hair's structure. Depending on the process and chemicals involved, these treatments can make hair drier, curlier, or straighter.
• Heat styling:Regular use of hot tools like curling irons, straighteners, and blow dryers can damage hair, leading to breakage and changes in texture. Excessive heat styling can make curly hair looser, straighter hair duller, and potentially wavier.
• Overall health:Diet, stress levels, and certain medications can impact hair health and temporarily or permanently alter its texture.
  

Ways to Alter Hair Type

Genetics determines your hair type, but styling and hair care practices can temporarily modify your hair's texture, as follows:

• Heat styling:Use curling irons or flat irons to create temporary waves, curls, or straighter styles.
• Diffuser drying:For wavy or curly hair, use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer to encourage curls and reduce frizz.
• Braiding and twisting:Braiding or twisting damp hair and letting it dry can create textured waves or looser curls.
• Hair rollers:Setting damp hair in rollers can create temporary waves or volume.
• Volumizing products:Use volumizing shampoos, conditioners, and styling products to add body and texture to straight hair.
• Leave-in conditioners, hair oils, and curl creams: Some styling products can define and enhance the natural curl pattern of wavy, curly, and coily hair.

Your hairstylist can provide product recommendations and tips on styling techniques based on your hair type and desired outcome.

Different Hair Types and Hair Loss

Hair lossis a common concern. People with all hair types can experience hair loss or thinning. Genetics plays the most significant role in hair loss, but other factors like stress, nutrition, medications, and hair care practices can play a role, too.

Your hair type doesn't play a role in hair loss, but it may indirectly influence how noticeable hair loss might be. Here's a breakdown:

• Type 1 (straight hair):Hair loss in straight hair may be more visually apparent because the hair strands fall flat against the scalp, revealing any thinning areas.
• Type 2 (wavy hair):The natural wave pattern of type 2 hair may help disguise some hair loss, as the waves create volume and make it harder to see the scalp.
• Type 3 (curly hair):Similar to wavy hair, tight curls may effectively camouflage hair loss due to the increased volume and density.
• Type 4 (coily or coiled hair):Coily hair's density and tight coils may make hair loss less noticeable in the early stages.

Summary

Understanding your hair type—based on curl pattern, density, and diameter—is the first step to a healthy hair care routine. The Andre Walker hair classification system provides a framework for identifying your hair type (types 1 through 4).

While genetics plays a significant role, hair texture can subtly change throughout your life due to hormones, age, and hair care practices. Contact a healthcare provider, such as a dermatologist, if you experience hair loss.